↗ View this article in the original PDF newsletter
The myriad foodways of Black communities in Canada were the focus of this year’s Hungry for Comfort, the annual day-long celebration of food history at Fort York. Lively demonstrations, tightly focused workshops, an awesome Caribbean luncheon, a few brief and thoughtful addresses and even treats from the fort’s own kitchen were all features of a satisfying day. And we learned who, exactly, makes the best apple cake and marmalade in all of Upper Canada!
Eden Hagos, the celebrated founder of the Black Foodie phenomenon, was a keynote speaker. So was Natasha Henry, leader of the Ontario Black History Society (next page). Dr. Jennylynd James, the food scientist (Trinidad & Tobago, degree from McGill) behind Bad Boy Sauces, led a panel that explored the great diversity of experience among our Black communities. Zanana Akande recalled her mother’s cooking in the Toronto of the 1940s and 50s. Carl Cassels unpacked his Harlem restaurants; Jackie Halstead surveyed the West Indian scene; and Paulette Kelly shared a northerner’s experience of food in the Southern States.
The Master Class of the day (it was a cold Saturday, Feb. 23) was given by Chef Selwyn Richards, whose legion of clients includes the Jamaica Tourist Board. Called “The Art of Catering,” it was followed (confirmed, really) by a luncheon his company then served: among its eleven items were Rasta Pasta Salad, Jollof Rice, Boneless Jerk Chicken in a Mild Pepper Sauce, Curry Channa, and Escoveitch of Red Snapper Filet. A modest carrot cake and a feast of tropical fruit sprawled out for dessert.
And there was more to come: an unspeakably delicious Sweet Potatoe Pie was unveiled by Fort York’s own culinary historians only an hour later. The recipe is from an American cookbook by Abby Fisher, What Mrs. Fisher Knows about Old Southern Cooking, 1881 (below). It was served with ice cream made from a recipe in the oldest cookbook written by an African American, Malinda Russell’s A Domestic Cookbook, 1866.
Afternoon workshops included Paulette Kelly’s golden cornbread, Karol Barclay’s necessary Breadfruit Chips, and Stacey Caswell’s extraordinary Scotch Bonnet Jelly. Ray Williams explored the mysteries of Accra, the salt-fish fritters of the islands. Adrian Forte (recall Gangster Burger) showed off his Sweet & Sour Tamarind BBQ Wings.
A team from the fort’s own culinary scene opened an old household manual – A House Servant’s Directory, by Robert Roberts – and worked through some revealing recipes. Appearing in 1827, this is thought to be the first book ever published by an African-American in the United States, and it was distributed here in Upper Canada.
Anticipation built all day for the celebration’s final event: the naming of the winners of the Redpath Baking & Preserving Competition, sponsored by the Canadian sugar firm and led by the Culinary Historians of Canada. Sally Kelly proved herself a leader in marmalade: 1st Prize in Pure Seville Orange Marmalade and the same honour, in the open Citrus category, for an extraordinary Blood Orange innovation. Susanne Tabur’s exquisite Grapefruit was next.
In the often surprising (and occasionally alarming) Savoury Sauce competition were the already famous Scotch Bonnet Jelly (1st Prize plus the Judge’s Choice); Sally Kelly’s Apple Date Chutney; and Sherry Murphy’s Tomato Catsup. The finest Apple Cake of the day was declared to be Pat Currie’s elaboration of a certain French approach. Also winning ribbons in the annual Redpath competition were Jean Sterritt, Mya Sangster and Jeremy Carter. Hungry for Comfort at Fort York National Historic Site will return next year.
Original printed pages
